Le Bourg |
Valmorel
is best of France's '4th Generation' purpose-built ski resorts,
reflecting local Savoyard architecture with more intimacy than the
massive constructions of the 1960s found elsewhere. The central
village is laid out along a car-free 'Grande Rue', with a
surprisingly eclectic mix of bar, restaurants and shops. None of the
adjacent buildings are more than three or four stories high, and
local stone, wood and lauze (slate) being the
materials of choice.
Like
many of the Tarentaise ski resorts, Valmorel was home-grown response
to the decline of traditional local economies in the middle of the
20th century: agriculture of course, but also the local mineral
industries. Despite the decline of these in the 1960s. caused by cheaper
imports and changing tax rules, two are still very much active at
the foot of the valley of the Morel.
FerroPEM furnace |
You
can't miss FerroPEM as you drive by La Lechère,
its vast satanic furnaces turning rocks into rare silicium alloys,
and Carbone de Savoie at Aigueblanche, coated in black dust
from processing wood into the base material for everything from
aeroplane wings and mobile phone components. These industries
were originally attracted to Savoie by the availability of cheap
electricity from hydro-electric power. Both these factories have
their own generating systems; you can see their pipes snaking up to
hidden reservoirs high in the mountains. They are so efficient they
also make a sizeable contribution to France's national grid - the
original green energy.
Michel Besançon |
So,
disturbed by the exile of young people from the valley, the two towns
got together to exploit the superb natural bowl below Le Cheval Noir
(2832m) , and employed the architect Michel Besançon to develop
plans for the new resort. Besançon had been involved with the
inception of La Plagne, where he had learnt a lot about the pros
and cons of tourist 'urbanisation' in virgin mountain pastures, and
the look and feel of Valmorel is very different to that of say Plagne
1800. But the integration of living facilities with the ski
area and a logical layout of pistes and lifts bear witness to his
expertise.
Valmorel
opened in 1976 with just 8500 beds, tiny by comparison the
the Paradiski or Trois Vallées
resorts just down the road. It has grown steadily, but not
uncontrollably, and link across the Col de la Madeleine to the
Maurienne resort of St François-Longchamp which opened in 1983 doubled the size of the original ski area. In 2011 ClubMed chose Valmorel for its
first 4 trident holiday centre in the Alps, putting Valmorel and La
Grande Domaine firmly on the map for their predominantly French
clientèle.
Although primarily a 'family-friendly' ski resort, with lots of easy and intermediate slopes at all levels, there are some notable off-piste adventures to be had: the all-day itinerary off the back of the Col de Mottet down to St Martin in the Belleville valley is stupendous, and the big steep-sided bowl below La Lauzière is often untracked for days. It's is certainly not Argentiere or Val d'Isère (although a major investor in Valmorel) but there's enough varied terrain to keep 90% of skiers happy for a week.
Col de Mottet |